Hair Bow Hoop Holder

After making my earring hoop holder from a hoop I had the idea of a Hair Bow holder.

You will need a big hoop (depends on how big you want, mine is 12″, approx 1-2 metres of grosgrain ribbon, a lighter, strong glue, ruler and scissors.

First up take the outside hoop off we will only be working with inner hoop for now. Measure about 6 cm from one outside edge and cut slightly longer than need.

Glue on end so it is flush with hoop but ribbon sits straight, this may end up on an angle.

The middle ribbon is approx. 5 cm from the outer ribbon and then position last ribbon in same manner. You may wish to hold them with clamps till slightly tacky.

Replace the outer hoop and tighten. Leaving the glue tacky will allow any transfer to outer hoop and help it hold.

Trim ribbon so it’s as flush to hoop as you can manage then using lighter seal the ends of the ribbon. This will stop it fraying.

Your bow holder is done! It is such a quick but effective project. I chose to use thick ribbon partly as I loved the rainbow. You could use thinner ribbon and add more lengths or leave some dangling underneath to increase how much your hoop can hold.

Depending on what bows you use thinner ribbon may sag so wider ribbon is best. You can use other ribbons but grosgrain is less lightly to pull, fray and be affected by clips. Mine holds 30 small to medium clips/bows. #

Earring Hoop Storage

I got my ears re pierced less than a year ago now  and I’ve been rebuilding my collection slowly which included storage. Years ago I used to just throw them all in a box but started to find my ears hurt and they would go a bit old looking.

So I wanted more grown up version, that looked nice and showed off my earrings. I started off with a frame with plastic canvas in which worked but was too flimsy, a pain to get earrings off, got too small (oops) and it was no good for hoops.

You will need a large embroidery hoop mines about 16 inches and a fat quarter of lace. (1).

Take your hoop apart and place the inner solid ring on a flat surface, drape the lace on top and the outer hoop with screw on top and push down (2).  Tighten the screw and pull the fabric taut. Be careful though if it’s too tight and you tug too much lace will tear so go slow.

Next up trim your lace. I trimmed it so when laid flat it was flush with the edge of the inner hoop (3). I glued the edge down turning it towards the middle (4). You could use any strong glue but liquid glue that will stink into the lace a little and dry invisible is best. Hot glue would make too much mess.

Add a ribbon loop to the top to hang up. I decided to add a bow to hide the knot in the ribbon. Start with 2 rectangles approx 12 x 9 cm. Sew together leaving a gap at the bottom (5). Turn out the right way and fold in half lengthwise (6). Fold the edges back down to the fold to create a concertina (7) and pin to secure. Cut out a small strip and fold in 3’s lengthwise (8). Place around the centre of your bow and secure at the back. With this strip it’s better to cut it too big and trim down.

Sew your bow onto the ribbon at the top and you’re done.

You may have noticed my crochet earrings on my hoop. If you missed the post click here.

Scrunchies are back

I’ve wanted a scrunchy for ages I used to love them as a kid and always had one till the elastic went and it was useless. I looked and looked but they were all aimed at young girls and not my style or in sets with all kinds of hair things.

Then it dawned on me I can make one so here we are! These are so easy and quick you can make tons.

First off you need to decide what size you want to make. The above photo shows a few sizes and different materials used too. Top left is jersey and black one is cotton, bottom right is like a glittery polyester fabric that’s sheer so I back with black jersey. All 3 are 34 cm long and 10 cm width. The blue one is baby cord and is 45 cm long and 12 cm wide then the red one is cotton and a small one suitable for younger kids or if you want a smaller bobble this is 30 cm long and 5 cm wide. The difference is how it looks in your hair so I have categorised them by hair use.

or this tutorial I experimented with making a mini but slightly wider so I cut it 6 cm and I much prefer it as a small for adult hair  with the mini suitable for softer hair or even a doll.

Bulky: 45 x 10 cm

Less Bulky: 34 x 10 cm

Small: 30 x 6 cm

Mini: 30 x 5 cm.

Start with your fabric of choice. For this I’m using poly-cotton. I’ve found no difference is how the bobble grip so any fabric will do as long as it puts up with being used a lot.

Fold your strip over so long sides meet with pattern side of fabric together (1). Sew along the long side and turn out. Cut your elastic to length. The best advice for the bigger ones is cut it to fit around your wrist as you then can use it much easier someone with a smaller hand may find it too bulky to tie round if cut to one specific length. However 15-17 cm is a good aim. Anything more and you either end up with a baggy bobble or it won’t stay on your wrist, anything smaller you can’t wear on your wrist.

Pop your elastic in one end and secure with a pin or tack stitch. Thread to other side and secure with a pin. (2)

Bring the two ends of elastic together and sew together. For the mini and small this is the point you can get the elastic to how you want so remember to cut it longer than needed. A good way to check if its good to use is to stretch it on your fingers (see below) to check you can easily stretch it to use.

Tuck your raw ends in as best you can and using a whip stitch close up the bobble. I found this easiest hooking over one fingers then folding the bobble round so I could see each edge. (4).

You’re done its that easy! The sewing can be fiddly so go slow and maybe try a big one first . Once you start making it’s so hard to stop making them.

Washable breast pads- FREE tutorial

I find washable breast pads much better than disposable as they never leak and you never run out.

First up you need a 13cm diameter circle. Your diameter is the width through middle.

Fold in half then half again. open out and fold in half the other way to basically end up with triangles as per pic. Cut out one of those triangles this is your dart and will shape the pad.

I used flannelette and fleece for mine. 4 layers of flannelette/winceyette and 1 of fleece per pad. Don’t forget you need 2 pads to make a pair.

Place the two egdes of your dark together and sew in place to create your dart (middle)

Do the same to each layer. I found sewing 2 layers of the flannelette at same time much easier and no more bulky than one layer at a time. Plus it made the process of sewing 8 pair much faster.

Next up place your 4 layers of flannelette with right side against wrong side. Right side- neatly sewn, wrong side- open seam with raw dart edges. Then place the wrong side of flannelette layers to wrong side of fleece.

Once sewn this ensure none of the raw edges of darts show and therefore reduces any irritation.

Sew around the edge of each pad trapping each layer. I used a straight stitch then trimmed them and finished off with an overcast stitch. If you are using a serger you can just do this in one fell swoop.

Repeat for each pad till you have enough.

If you don’t feel confident doing the darts or haven’t the energy you can use the pattern as a full circle and they work just as well without too much bulk showing through a bra and top.

You can also make bigger and thicker ones for night use and remember to only use washable creams or you may find them less effective over time.

Other materials you can use for absorbency are microfibre, bamboo, zorb and terry towelling. You can use fleece like I did or PUL to keep them breathable.

Fleece acts as water resistant barrier so provided you have enough layers to absorb any possible leaks the fleece is enough a layer to stop any leaks out other side whilst remaining breathable enough.

Project Bag & Accessory Purse- FREE pattern & tutorial

A friend asked me to make her a project bag with an eyelet hole so she can use it with caked yarn. I offered to do this for free as it was my first go so she sent me all I needed to make this.

You need to decide what size you want this for and what you want to put in there one or two or more cakes?

Mine was enough for 4 cakes comfortably if it’s too packed you’ll not be able to close it or work comfortably.

You will need:

• 4 rectangles (2 inner, 2 outer) 38 cm wide and 28 cm high. (main bag)
• 4 squares (2 outer, 2 inner) 10 cm
• 40 cm zip
• eyelet set

Start by sewing your zip onto an outer. This is shown with the smaller pouch but is same technique. Pin your outer with fabric facing the outer of the zip. Line up the lining with right side facing right side of fabric but back of the zip. You are basically sandwiching the zip between your outer and lining

Sew into place and repeat for other side.

You can do this at the start but I added an extra tab to the bag to make it easier to open and close. Cut a 4 x 3 inch rectangle (10 x 7.5 cm ). Join long sides and sew up. Turn out and iron . I added sewing lines to mine to make it stiffer. Fold so short sides are together and iron.

Open it up and place the right sides of outer together and same for lining, pinning in place. You should end up with below. Pin your tab about 2 cm down from zip on the outer. It’s a good idea to add it to the side the zips starts from when you’re closing. When pinning this in make sure it’s inside so when finished it appears on the outside.

Ensure before sewing your edges are lined up and the zip is pushed towards the lining. Sew around the sides of the outer. Carry on past the zip and sew 2 sides of the lining.

Now we’ll pretend I did mine exactly right. Remember do as I say not as I do. When sewing the last side of the LINING (not the outer like me) leave a gap. It’s a good idea to start from the lining across the zip so when you get your gap the zip is secured. Cut off any excess zip.

We need to prefer the box corners now. Flatten the side seam with the bottom seam. I find it easiest to line up by putting a pin in the  side (left) and checking it’s at same point on the base and flatten down.

measure across the corner 4 inches/ 10 cm. Ensure this is straight and draw a line. Then sew across. You need to repeat this for the other lining corner and the outer corners too. Trim excess.

Once done turn the whole lot out through the gap in the lining. This can be fiddly. Once done you can close up the gap either hand stitching or machine stitch it closed.

Repeat same process for the mini purse leaving out box corners to leave it flat. If you wish you can sew along the zip to secure the fabric .

Losing Weight when Crafting

Due to the fact most crafts are done at home sat down its hard to imagine how you you can involve any weight loss into it.

Well you can.

Stand up to cut out and pin things if your back allows. I find I move about more back and forth smoothing this, pinning that, grabbing my scissors moving things out the way. I would recommend doing at a table not the floor or you’re tempted to sit.

Be prepared! Sounds like a 1950’s singer manual quote but honestly the more prepared you are the less distracted you’ll be more and less likely to stop for a ‘reward’.

Don’t sew hungry as you’ll be more tempted to snack in case of eating a meal because you just want to get this part done.

Don’t have handy chocolate or sweets near by. Provided you are prepared and don’t feel need to take a break because you have to cut something out or do this or that to continue you won’t find time to hunt out the snacks.

Get up for regular walks even if you run up the stairs to the loo. Loosen your limbs and don’t stay sat because no amount of not snacking or standing will help if you don’t take breaks.

In crafts such as crochet or knitting where you can’t move in the same way you could try standing up. Standing up takes energy strength and yes you can burn calories doing so.

If needs be a walk to the craft shop will suffice. Daily for extra effect.

Homemade Deodorant and skin scrub

So I opted to try (ok well I opted Daddy Critter to try) deodorant  hair treatment & foot treatment for cracked heels.

First deodorant. I mixed equal parts of cornflour & baking powder. I gradually added coconut oil till it went to a smooth paste.

The coconut oil comes solid so will have to melt a little. I just popped it in a cup in a bowl of hot water.

Its hard to describe the texture but will be almost like a dry paste that’s very matt & smooth looking.

Daddy Critter rides a bike a lot (pedal kind)  & tested this over 2 days. He favours the use of natural products & has reported them to be a little useless unless reapplied numerous times which isn’t always that easy.

You can put this in an old wind up deodorant ‘case’ for ease of use which means great recycling opportunity.

His verdict of this? worked fab!! Lot less sweat & smells & feel so much nicer. We added couple drops of tea tree oil & he much preferred the smell as a lot of natural are scentless or very mild.

I suffer a lot with cracked heels. I dislike socks so believe this doesn’t help. I looked after my feet but the cracks appear so quickly & so dramatically its difficult.

It was suggested I try mashed up banana but I decided to avoid that option & sought my own.

First I tried coconut oil for 2 days, my feet were same.

Then tried aloe vera gel ( yes not home made but natural & sometimes used in home made recipes) & was useless also. I found this actually hurt a little when applied so was maybe working a little but slowly too slow for me!

My last option was lemon sugar scrub. Smell is lush to start with.

Its 2 cups of sugar mixed with 1/4 cup of olive oil, recipe said almond or coconut but I used olive oil. I also added a squeeze of lemon juice but you can use essential oil if prefer.

I resembled slightly wet fluffy snow without being oily or sticky from either main ingredient. I tested it on my hand to start with just to check consistency was right.

Don’t rub too hard cos this is tough stuff but works wonderfully. Left us all with lovely soft skin & not a hint of stickiness you can store in air-tight container.