Free pattern round-up

I thought today I would share a round up of my free patterns I have available! Theres a few more than shown here so why not check my ravelry link out and explore


Bonnet with mitts

Road Blanket

Earrings

Water Bomb Balloon

Pink Dreamcatcher  includes a white one also

Storage bowls

Hot Water Bottle Cover

Fox Dreamcatcher

Triceratops head

UFO

Granny Square Hot Water Bottle

Theres also mug coseys, doll clothing and a baby capelet why not check them out

 

 

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Water Bomb Balloons- crochet pattern

The new craze at moment seems to be these crocheted water balloons. The special baby/blanket yarn which is classes as super bulky yarn and has a soft chenille type feel to it holds water like no other yarn perfect for throwing at your victim or just splatting them around the place.

They are great to have at home in the garden, take to a pool party, take along to the beach and get someone unsuspecting with them or you could make them as a fun gift that will last! They are eco- friendly, latex free and reuseable for years and year. You can wash them in the machine when they get dirty too.

Best bit??? It’s a free pattern just check it out on Ravelry.

Check out my Facebook page for a video showing how much these hold and how fab they splat.

Alternatively you can buy them on my Etsy page

Rip Stop Makes- game bag and wet bag

Rip stop is a great strong fabric that is thin enough to be flexible, water resistant but also super easy to wash even on a hot wash. It is also cheap at about £3-5 a metre.

I have used this fabric to make small drawstring bags, sling covers, bags and many more things. Today I’m going to show you have to make a bag for playing games and a large wet bag.

  1. Start off with 2 squares 31×31 cm. Placing them right sides together pin in place.  From the bottom corners mark up 10cm and the same across the bottom. Do this for both corners.
  2. Start sewing from the top using a 1 cm seam allowance. When you reach the first pin start to curve around the corner to the second pin along bottom then do same for other pins to create a curved bottom. Trim and turn bag right way out
  3. Cut  5 strips of webbing at 8cm long. I used 2.5cm wide webbing and sealed the ends with a lighter.
  4. Fold around D-rings a suitable size and pin.
  5. Fold over the top edge inside 1 cm and pin in place
  6. Pin the webbing around the top edge so the top of the webbing is level with the edge of the bag. I placed mine approx. 8 cm apart.
  7. Sew around the bag securing the 1cm turn over and at same time securing the webbing. Then sew crossed squares onto each strip. This helps secure it well and strongly
  8. Now place a ball inside and thread rope through the rings and knot.
  9. This is a perfect group game- stand in a circle with one side holding the rope. Swing around so it should hit the legs of the circle but the goal is to jump as you spin it round and if you get caught you’re out.

Next up is a large wet bag.  Cut out 2 large rectangles to size you want. I used the rest of my fabric pieces were around 30x50cm.

  1. Place one side of a zip onto the top edge of one piece and then using the other side place along top edge of other piece and sew into place.
  2. To sew past a zip stop about 5 cm away from the zip, ensuring needle is down lift the foot.
  3. Turn your work so its horizontal and gently push zip open so when you continue sewing it sits behind the foot and you can continue sewing without it getting in the way.
  4. Once in place find both hard stopper ends. Place needle back in at the top so the hard end is to the right of the foot and more importantly the needle then sew down 1cm. Keeping needle down and foot up turn your bag so youre sewing away from the zip. Sew along top, side, bottom and other side.
  5. Once you reach the other corner make sure your zip is open so when you finish you’ve not accidental sewn it shut. Repeat step 2 and 3 to sew across the opposite side of the zip but in reverse.
  6. Turn out the right away and bingo you have a large wet bag. This is fab for swimming, for the beach or for cloth nappies. You can throw it into wash just open the zip and throw it in.

Decorative Paper Bag

With all the plastic pollution and talk on reducing I like to do my bit.

I was feeling guilty on not doing more but someone pointed out even one step can help if everyone takes one step it can reduce the effect massively so although I continue to buy and use non eco things I change a few things.

One of the things I wanted was to send my items in a nice pretty way so I have opted for paper bags. There’s nothing nicer than feeling like you’re getting a little present even if you are expecting the parcel.

I have been unable to find bigger bags so decided to make some which has been a trial in itself so here is a tutorial on the bag and a little review on some stamping items.

I will talk about the paper in a moment but for now you will need a template. This is the size of mine:

I started off with a 49.5 x 21 cm square (random I know but I drew it all bit by bit first go then drew it from a square. From the right side measure in 1.5 cm (this is your overlap) then 12 cm (this makes the 13.5 cm) then 24 then another 12 cm and draw lines vertically.

I then marked off 2.5 cm at the top and 1.5 cm at the bottom then as can see I cut out the 2 side bits at bottom and middle bit at top.

My slant at top is 1.5 cm in but this depends on how you wish yours to look as long as you end up with this approx shape. The slanted sections are in two halves so be sure to draw the slants the right way.

Fold at the sides (1). Then bring these two sides together and glue the overlap.(2) This completes  your back join.Then  fold up the bottom flap and glue in place to complete your bag.(3).

This is a great size for bigger items and ready to use ones are great for my smaller items. Beauty of these is you can custom make any size for any item or use the paper to wrap something nicely instead.

Now onto the paper. I wanted to use brown paper and white stamps in circle shapes. Mu business is Red Spotty so although I didn’t want to use red spots I did want spots.

I ordered kraft paper I was under impression this is what I needed. It was wrong stuff I then did hours of research and ended up with …. exactly the same stuff!!! This is a cheaper brown paper great for packaging and pattern drawing or using as scribble paper (4). It however is not overly nice looking and certainly not suitable for my bags.

In the end I went to a local post office and got thinner nicer stuff that has lines through it as can see in other images.

Next up came the stamping (well I actually did it before the bag) I bought a Dovecraft stamp and various types of stamps. As can see the circles in white look really nice on the brown (6,7) and the stamps I have I can mix up how I want them to look.

I have Artemio Mini Clear Stamps Dotted Circles and an acrylic block. They are individual stamps with no mount so you can mix and match how you want the order to look or use one at once.

My problem came with the ink. As can see in image 5 it isn’t overly a clear image and looks a bit too inky. Image 8 shows the back of the back and the clear almost greasy marks it creates is off putting. This was taken when it was slightly wet but since the stains are still there.

I had an old Versacraft ink pad I tried out as can see in image 9 it is a much clearer stamp and it doesn’t stain the other side. Only issue is its an off white as its so old so I need a new one.

Overly I need practise its been many years since I did stamping. A clean stamp, good ink pad and a firm surface all help. It is easier to put the ink on the stamp rather than place stamp on the pad.

I’m not used to these types of stamps and they have less depth to them but so far I’m please with how I wanted it look.

Cardboard Drawers

Today is using match boxes and cardboard to make mini drawers. With having a new unit and lots of bits and bobs I need some drawers but wanted to make them.

I collected 4 large match boxes to form the main part of my drawers and glued them together (1). I wanted a little extra storage on top so I made a template. Measure the width and depth of the top which for me was 13.5 and 12 cm. I wanted it to be 5 cm in height.

I drew my template so the extra shelf had a roof, bottom, 2 sides and a back. I drew a rectangle 13.5 cm width with 12 cm depth ( or height as you draw). I extended this by 3 cm to form half the side. Under the big rectangle I drew the back which was 5 cm x 13.5 cm (height of shelf x width of boxes).

I then repeated the top under that to create the base except I made the sides here 4 cm. I realise this equals 7 cm but it will overlap to form a stronger side. I extended the sides from the back to add extra too. (2) You will need to cut this out.  The darker lines you will cut too but leave the rest of your lines intact.

Score all your lines that need folding. and fold them in. I folded mine with white on outside and pattern inside but soon swapped it over so be sure your inside is the plain side. Fold over your sides with the smaller back extension being most inner (3) and fold over one side gluing in place. Fold over the other side (4) and glue down. Repeat for other side of the shelf.

You will need to glue this shelf to your drawers. I found it easier to glue on top them flip it over to press gently . Flip it back and ensure it’s all stuck down. (5).

Prepare the back of the drawers by using patterned card or glue paper onto card and cut to size (height of drawers plus shelf x width). (6).

Glue paper to the sides overlapping at the back, top and bottom. Glue in place and repeat for other side. (7). Glue the back of your drawers. Be sure to only glue non moving parts, if it helps take your drawers out then glue the back you created on (8)

Measure your drawer fronts ( 6 x 2 cm) and cut out decorative rectangles to stick on. I did mine slightly smaller so they don’t get caught when I’m using the drawers. Make a hole in the centre and place knotted ribbon through. You can either push it through, using a wool needle, from the front and knot then tie off or tie it and push through from the inside of the drawers.

Alternatively you can make 2 holes and create a mini handle with cord, ribbon or beads. You could also glue a bead to the front or use a paper fastener.
Here’s my drawers in place. I placed sparkly card on top of the whole lot to glitz it up a bit and placed my bits and bobs inside.

Valentine Jar of Hearts

With 2 birthdays and an MOT due valentines this year is a made gift. I keep trying to get out of any gift each year but I don’t have the heart (see what I did there) to receive a gift and not give something back so this is the result.

I decided a jar of love would be a fun project but mean so much more although I’m willing to accept a shop bought gift in return.

I cut out lots of hearts I couldn’t tell you how many but around 50-60. On some I wrote funny or nice memories, some I wrote goals, others I wrote why I love him. Some I decided to draw maps on of places that mean something or that we had firsts in including where our children were born. 

There were a few with song quotes on also. A number of them were purely decorative with a few love hearts and kisses thrown in.

Top left is the red heart which is a origami heart you can gently blow into to inflate. Click here to view the video

Next to it is 2 concertina hearts this were so much fun to make and super easy! Click here to view the video.

The orange heart is another type of origami heart and the easiest complicated looking one I managed. Click here to see how.

There are lots of other versions big or small you can find by looking online. I found a few hard to do but it’s all good fun!

Tie on Chair Cushions

I’ve been sprucing up my house making things match more and updating worn ugly looking bits and bobs.

The next task was tie on cushions for my table as we had some and I washed them and they went lumpy. Oops.

You will need :

  • 2 squares per cushion (my inserts were 15 inch so I cut my cushion squares same.
  • 2 ties 2 x 15 inch; alternatively you can cut 4 – 2 x 7.5 inch.
  • zip same width as your cushion cover unsewn.

First up prepare your ties. You will need 2 per cushion which you can either use as one long tie or sew folded to create 2 ties per corner.

Fold your tie in half length ways. If you iron these they will end up easier to sew and neater open it (1) then fold one side in to the crease (2). Repeat for other side then fold the sort end over before ironing again (3)  Fold in half again and iron (4). Sew along the open edge to secure.

Pin your tie on 2cm in from the edge (5) If you are wanting 2 ties per corner fold your tie in half before pinning in place (6). Pin the other tie in place on opposite side but same edge, 2 cm in.

Pin your zip along the same edge  with right side of fabric against the upper part of the zip. Place the zip over the ties when pinning and sew into place. Place the second square against other of zip and sew on. You will end up with 2 squares with a zip joining them (8).

Place the right sides of the cushion together lining up the zip. (9). You’re aiming for the edges of the cushion to be lined up with the zip enveloping that (10). When sewing this part you will need to have your zip open or you’ll struggle to open it up after. With this in mine ensure you line up the metal parts of your zip before sewing so the zip will close correctly. If your zip is too long leave it to last to cut so you can line it up.

 Turn your cushion out and place insert inside. If you have cut out the cover with no seam allowance as I did you will find it a tight fit putting the insert in. This is fine because you end up with a better looking cushion. If you add too much seam allowance you end up with a flat cushion.

I made one with a long tie and the rest with 2 ties and they were much easier to fasten to the chairs.

As you can see they aren’t the perfect size for my chairs bu they are lovely and full looking and best part didn’t cost me a penny for my inners as I already had them.