Art work peg board for kids


You will need:

  • wooden plaque
  • 2 wooden pegs
  • pva glue
  • brush
  • tester pot
  • child’s name or text

Paint the boards front and sides , the pegs leaving the back unpainted and the names if buying mdf ones. You may need to give everything a second coat. Be sure to paint in one direction and use good quality brushes. You can alternatively use a mini roller or a sponge to paint for more even texture. When painting your pegs don’t layer too much on or the leg won’t open.


When dry stick name on central then two pegs either side. I used PVA glue and left to dry for 24 hours. You could also use wood glue, epoxy glue or a hot glue gun for this.

For the name you have options you can write it on yourself, buy ready cut acrylic letters, use felt, paint it on or buy laser cut mdf names and paint.


Hang where you can see your childs beautiful artwork.


The bonus of two pegs is you can hang heavy and big pieces easily on a small plaque or you can hang two pictures for those busy arty weeks we all inevitably have. They also make a great gift and you could leave the legs off for a door sign.




Making Tab Top Curtains from a duvet set.

My son needed curtains but I didn’t want to pay min £15 for a pair of black out curtains so I decided to use a cheap thin duvet cover instead. I did need to purchase black out material but that cost me under £6 so was still a bargain project. If you use blinds and just  want an extra covering this project will be free!

I started by cutting off the popper strip from the bottom of the duvet cover. I plan to make one curtain that is double layered because it really is very thin. If you need 2 curtains you will need to unpick the seam along the other edges.


You now need to determine how big to make your tabs. The curtain pole I’m using is fairly close to the top of the window so I needed them as small as possible but still allowing fluid movement so I settled on 3.5 inches adding on an inch for sewing together. I then chose to have 10 tabs approx 2 inches wide adding on 0.5 inch for sewing together. To decide on how many tabs work out the gap they will fit on the pole and ensure they aren’t all bunched up or you’ll not be able to open them


To create less sewing I cut my tabs on the fold meaning I need 9 squares 4.5 x 4.5 inches. I used the pillowcase to make the tabs and again as it was thin I decided to make the abs using both layers.


Once sewn iron flat. You will now need to sew your duvet cover up. Sew from the bottom about 2/3 wat up and fasten off. Starting from top sew about 5-10 cm down leaving a gap just enough to turn. Doing the gap part way down means you don’t have any fiddling corners to deal with.


Turn right side out and iron the seam you just sewed. Tuck under raw edges and top stitch in place as close to edge as possible. You may wish to match your thread to hide this join and when hanging make sure this line is near the top.


Next up cut out your backing. Most blackout materials don’t fray so you can get away with not hemming which I will as I hate hemming long straight edges. Cut the backing about 0.5 inches smaller than the curtain all around except top edge needs to be almost flush to top.

You need to now pin your tabs into place. Position the raw edge of  tabs max of 0.5 down from the top edge and spread evenly ensuring you have one near both edges no more than 0.25 inches from edge. I  wanted 3.5 inch gap between tabs but found 6 inches  better, as you can see 3.5 inches was just too close and I would have need twice the amount of tabs which wouldn’t have fit on the pole.


Place backing over the tabs so they overlap min of 0.25 inches and sew into place along the top edge only. You may wish to do an extra line of stitching to secure the tabs.


You’re done.  You can now hang your curtains happy knowing you did it free or cheaply. Not best picture because when you block the light out it doesn’t work as well for pictures.



Tree Skirt Completion


Following on from tree skirt tutorial we’re going to finish!

Laying your completed skirt on the base fabric smooth it all out and pin. You can alternative pin this with outer fabric facing up and bias bind the edges but I wanted to save cost so I didn’t. It’s a good idea to iron your seams flat to make this process easier.


At this stage your middle hole may look tiny don’t worry even if its the wrong size you can cut more off after it’s sewn.


Sew around the outside curve of the skirt starting from one opening edge ending at other. You can turn it round here or you can fold the straight edges under and sew before turning. Don’t forget to trim excess fabric and give it as good iron!

Now if you didn’t use bias binding to edge your skirt you need to edge the trunk hole (her hum sounds bit rude that one) I used cotton tape I had but you can use ribbon or small amounts of bias, as long as enough to have ties and edges. Double over and sew securing ends. Add 2 more sets down the straight edge.


You could go without ties and just sit it on the floor to look nice up to you. Here is the completed skirt it turned out way better than I thought it would as circles are never easy.


Doesn’t it look pretty?! perfect size too.



Tree Skirt Tutorial

As usual I’m not giving you a pattern but more show you how to make your own! This is for a 8 segment wedge skirt.

The guide or size is no bigger than the widest part of your tree. Mine is 94cm so that’s the diameter of my circle.

As I wanted a template but didn’t have wide enough paper I drew a quarter of it.

Before we carry on this is the fabric I’m using. This is from Metre Rabbit who you can find on facebook too. I’ve been told will be quilting kits to buy soon complete with wadding and backing. These fabrics come in green too!


Freshly cut in need of an iron! I would suggest you iron before you cut this was after cutting when they were folded ready to sew in the week and I had lightbulb I need a picture moment.

Back to the drawing. Once you have your diameter half it and draw  a quarter circle. I drew a square 47 x 47cm then draw a circle from top corner to bottom. I did the tie string to a pencil trick. You then need to decide on the middle section it should only a little wider than trunk. I wanted my hole 10cm but to allow for 1cm lost from sewing I drew it 4cm. Once sewn with 1cm seam the half hole will be 5 cm makin whole holw 10cm. You still with me?


You could cut a full skirt rom what you have by folding your fabric in half twice and matching the straight edges with the folds but we want 8 wedges so next job is separate the circle. You could just cut it out then fold to get 2 wedges. But if you want to be mathematical you can work out circumference of whole circle (diameter x pi) and divide by 8. Do same for small hole (4x pi in my skirt) measure carefully and match up to draw the line.


I cut my circle slightly bigger so there’s no extra needed for seams at curved parts but you may wish to add extra to straight edges of wedges so when sewn it doesn’t end up smaller. However I didn’t.

I had 5 FQ’s to make this with scraps left to cut out a small doll quilt.


See you next time for the sewing part. Don’t forget you will need a backing the same size as circle and some ribbon for tying. Next job… Iron my pieces!


Upcycled Bathroom cabinet

I apologise now for the severe lack of photos for this blog. I took the doors off before photographing then I ended up in hospital between starting and finishing but you will get the idea.

We had mirrored doors when moved in and between kids, doors and the cabinet being in the worse place possible both mirrors cracked. I decided to take them off completely and revamp the doors.

First I had to sand them you can see the difference in them one is shiny the other is getting nice and dull meaning the paint will stick better.


Now the paint I used was a little naff but as I was doing it on the cheap I used what I had. I would advise for future to just go buy a tin of decent paint you can get away with a very small tin as the doors are only small themselves. They look a bit streaky as the paint was just too thin but as a temporary job it will do (we rent!)


After they dried I put on new shiny hinges, reapplied the door handles on and put the doors back on. Make sure you get the right size or you’ll need new holes which may weaken the door. It took some searching but I was able to find exact same size ones.

image image

I then put the round mirrors on I bought in an attempt to make them look like shiny bubbles. I positioned the biggest one at standing height so we can use and the smaller ones to fill in the gaps. I wish I had got more so may get some in between ones and put 3 more on.


Hope you like it! Much improved from the peachy look we had before.


Fimo Magnets

I found some fimo shapes I had made years ago so decided to do a quick project with them to brighten up my fridge.


I chose which I wanted to use & laid them out.


Apply glue to 1 side of the magnet & place a shape on for a simple small magnet. Good glues are epoxy glues like E6000 or gemtac. You could also use hot glue gun.


For clothes peg clips apply glue to 1 side for the magnet & 3 blobs other side for the pretty shapes.


Make sure to pop magnet at the top away from the opening


Voila pretty easy magnets.



Stuffed Fabric Letters

This is a great project for scraps as long as your not fussy about it matching 🙂 This is more just a few tips on how to do your own string of letters.

I started by printing off the letters I need from my computer. If you don’t have a printer you can trace them off the screen. I cut mine bigger than the outline & overlaid them to the fabric. You will need 2 of each letter so best way is to fold your fabric near edge then pin. This gives you 2 of them same.


With right sides together sew your letter round outside edge.


Leave a small gap along a straight edge. If you have a letter with a hole like A or O or R etc DON’T sew the hole yet!


At pointed edges sew across 1 – 2 stitches.


Once that’s sorted you can turn out the right way & stuff this is what your gap is for. See below for hole letters Q, A, O, P, B & D.

Use blunt ended scissors or a chopstick to get your stuffing in all the corners. For letters like S, M & N you may need 2 gaps to effectively stuffed.



To close up the gap tuck the raw edges inside & may be useful to pin at this point. Thread a needle with matching thread & knot. Insert from the inside to outside but still within the seam & perform a ladder stitch.

CIMG8666 CIMG8667 CIMG8669

Click above for a video tutorial on how to do this however the few pictures above hopefully help. You sew from side to side creating a ladder of stitches.

To close the  middle of the ‘hole’ letters Q, O, P, A, D & B you will  need to do by hand after turning but just before stuffing.

Thread a needle so is double thread & knot.


Turn under the raw edge & put needle through as shown.


Pull through & insert in opposite side the same way but opposite direction


Repeat alternating sides.


You will start to see a neat edge as you continue (the the left )

CIMG8757 CIMG8764

This is my finish piece mounted on folded & sewn bias then hand sewn on.