Super Quick Car Seat Protector

It’s that time of our life again…… potty training! With us finally owning a car and in need of car seats it suddenly dawned we could end up washing it a lot. Our seat as you might be able to see has a layer you can remove and wash but it’s threaded through the straps and requires taking the seat out of the car and unfastening the 5 point harness straps to remove. An extra layer with waterproofing was needed.

First off you need to measure the following.

Red: between waist straps

White: from back (or where you want edge of mat to start) to crotch strap

Green: measurement between edge of seat area to crotch strap

Purple: from straps to where seat area ends (where knees start to bend)

Yellow: if you want your mat to go slightly up the child’s back then measure higher. out seat is slightly narrower on back than were bum sits.

Pink: full length of mat

Blue: crotch strap to seat end area

You will also need to measure width of crotch strap.


I took off the crotch strap cover to draw around.


I wanted a mat that I didn’t sew then turn out and topstitch  because if you use fleece like I have it creates bulk! So I sewed it without turning. This means you don’t need the same seam allowances as you normally would. I added 1 cm to edges to give me some room to trim them.  If your confident with not trimming then add nothing.

As you can see from my mat the top is slimmer and widens out to cover leg area. To save making holes for the strap clips I cut up the middle and created a small triangle to fit the strap. (see below for a coloured line picture to correspond to seat measurements)


You need to cut two from fleece of the mat and the crotch strap cover. Lay the fleece with one layer wrong side facing up, overlap waterproof material (I used clear PVC) then the second fleece layer right side facing up. Sew around the edge and trim the waterproof fabric away neatening edges.image

Lay the two crotch strap pieces wrong sides together and sew round outside.


After you have sewn the main mat and crotch strap piece lay it central to the triangle (this represents where the strap goes) Sew into place so the crotch strap piece covers the gap.


Crotch strap piece lifted up and laid down. When in use it will lay on top of clip and protect it.

image image

Now put in place and fingers crossed it’s not needed!

I used fleece and clear PVC as fleece wicks away moisture but doesn’t absorb it and leak it back out so it doesn’t stay wet!

Other alternatives are suede cloth with absorbent layer under like terry towelling.

You can use ripstop, PUL or an extra layer of fleece for the waterproofing. It all depends on how long you plan to use it, your child’s needs and how heavily they may wet. Pul is breathable and machine washable, extra fleece will wick away moisture well but if your child is a heavy wetter it will seep through so is only useful for little leaks or you will need to layer up with more absorbent fabrics.. Ripstop comes in different thicknesses, or weights, and the thinner stuff that usually is plan is more machine sturdy than thicker patterned stuff. All these fabric also dry fast which is perfect.

PVC can’t generally be machine washed so I will need to hand wash but when my son has an accident it’s usually very little therefore I don’t anticipate needing to wash much.




Car Accessories- FREE patterns and tutorial

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Tunisian crochet pattern


Ive been working very hard on writing and getting tested this cute Crochet and Hat set. This will be from Preemie to age 4!!! This is a new age range I’m introducing for all new patterns and eventually old patterns too!

This set looks knitted and I’ve been asked many time in CROCHET groups if it is! But no it is actually crochet done on one single hook but a rather long hook. The stitches are even called knit and purl.


The cardigan features a square neck with cross over design fastening nearing the shoulder.


Some sewing is required but there is full instructions on how to do this if you’re not very confident and you can slip stitch it together so really you don’t have to sew much.

The hat is made in one piece and sew or slip stitched up and pom poms added.


The pattern uses over 100g just for the cardigan but it’s a lovely thick set that would be thin enough for the car but warm enough for in the pram or a carrier.


It is available to buy and download from Ravelry.


Bobble Capelet Cardigan – FREE crochet pattern


Bobble Capelet Cardigan

Yarn: Aran, 10ply

Hook: 6mm

Pattern Notes

  • US crochet terms used throughout
  • Bobble: dc5tog (us terms)
  • When crocheting over chain space out 3 sc in each space
  • Chain 1 is turning chain and NOT to be counted as a stitch unless stated


  1. Chain 37, sc in 2nd chain and each chain to end
  2. Chain 1, *sc in one, 2sc in next* till 4 left, skip 3, 2sc in end stitch.
  3. Chain 1, sc in 2, 3sc over chain space, sc in 4 *bobble, sc in 6* till 9 left and sc in last 9
  4. Chain 1 *sc in 3, 2sc* sc in last stitch
  5. Chain 1, sc in first stitch, chain 3, skip 3 sc in each stitch to end
  6. Chain 1, *sc in 5, 2sc* to chain space, 3sc in chain space and sc in last stitch
  7. Chain 1, sc in first, 3sc in chain space, sc in 5, *bobble, sc in 8* sc in last stitch
  8. Chain 1, *sc in 7, 2sc* till 4 left, skip 3, sc in last stitch
  9. Chain 1, sc in 2nd stitch, 3 sc in chain space and sc in each stitch to end
  10. Chain 1, sc in 2nd stitch, chain 3, skip 3, sc in 2, *bobble, sc in 9* till end sc in last stitch.
  11. Chain 1, *sc in 11, 2sc* to end sc in last stitch
  12. Chain 1, sc in each stitch to end
  13. Chain 1 *sc in 13, 2sc* to end
  14. Chain 1, sc in 2nd stitch, chain 3, skip3, sc in 6 *bobble, sc in 11* 4 times sc in 6, bobble once and *to * 2 more times. Sc to end
  15. Chain 1, *sc in 15, 2sc* to end, 3sc in chain space and sc in end stitch
  16. Chain 1, sc in each stitch to end
  17. Chain 1, *sc in 16, 2sc* to end sc in last stitch
  18. Chain 1, sc in first, chain 3, skip 3, sc in 4 *bobble, sc in 10* twice, ^bobble, sc in 15^ twice *to * once , ^ to ^ once and *to * once more, sc to end
  19. Chain 1, sc in 20, chain 9, skip 20, sc in 36, chain 9, skip 20, sc in 20.
  20. Chain 1, sc in each stitch to end
  21. Repeat row 20
  22. Chain 1, sc in 3 *bobble, sc in 9* sc in last stitch
  23. Repeat row 20
  24. Repeat row 20
  25. Repeat row 20
  26. Chain 1, sc in 8 *bobble, sc in 9* to end 2sc in last st. Continue sc up the centre front of cardigan (1 sc per row end) fasten off. Sl st into first sc of row, sc in same stitch and sc up opposite centre front.



  1. Sl st into first stitch of armhole from row 18, (should be crocheted so you are creating upper sleeve section first) 1 in each stitch to corner. Skip corner and sc 10 across underarm avoid 2nd corner and sl st into first st (approx 31)
  2. Skip first stitch (the one you sl st into) and sc in each till hit stitch before corner. Sc3tg over next stitch, corner and stitch after, sc across and sc3tog again at corner. Sl st into first
  3. Repeat round 2.

Alternatively you can download the PDF from my Ravelry Store


This has not been tested but you can up/down a hook size and/or yarn weight to make different sizes.