Crimplene Nappy and Jumpsuit

I had the chance to get a whole metre of crimplene for £1 on ebay. I’ve been told it gets hot to wear and well I got feelings even at £1 some didn’t see it was a great find or bargain.

But me being me I was made up and I only planned to make doll clothes anyway. These fabric would also make good coats for a child or as suggested to me a winter skirt.

I decided to make my doll a custom nappy and a kimono jumpsuit.

Great site for links

For nappy I used click the first photo

Download onto adobe otherwise you don’t get right sizing if like me you copy off the screen.

As this was for a doll I made sure the sizing was right before I started I didn’t want an adjustable nappy as I want to reduce bulk in the front. I also decided to do slight padding to give the doll a squidgy bum but didn’t require to soak in liquid. Like a real nappy I use suede cloth core mostly because it’s cheap and thin.

 nappy (2)

The pattern itself was easy to copy off great shape and easy to sew. It does come with instructions for poppers but with a little decrease before copying off and extra 1 cm off the leg curves I found it a great first size nappy. Even without the size decrease this is a great fit and size. The leg curve I would say bring in a little if like small nappies.


As you can see by the fit on the doll this is a great nappy for higher leg holes to give baby extra freedom with the right amount of cute bulge. Due to the stretch in crimplene and how well it washes its great for nappies. However it’s not known for breathability so may contribute to nappy rash. Excellent for dolls though!


With the rest ( I say rest but I’ve tons left over) I made a kimono jumpsuit with cuffs.

This pattern is designed to made with fleece so it seemed the right one for crimplene as it has a degree of stretch. Another easy sew that suits the fabric well. The tutorial gives advice on how to increase and decrease areas of the pattern to suit your baby. I took off a few inches on sleeves and legs to include ribbed cuffs as I just love them.

romper close romper front

The pattern has a little crotch/butt patch to accommodate a nappy without being tight or sagging.

 romper gusset

Hope you loved my modern makes with vintage fabric.


Doll Pants and Top

This is Jake and we had an incident with a hot light.image

So poor baby got skin graft bandage and new clothes. Jake is made from NimblePhish’s Tiny baby doll pattern so this pattern will fit any of these dolls made as per her pattern instructions. I can highly recommend this pattern the doll is so cute and each one turns out so different. I added open eyes and a willy to my boy ones.


This is made using 10 ply cotton and 6.5 mm crochet hook. You could use 8 ply and increase your hook size or add extra stitches if you want a more closed look but I haven’t tested this.




  1. Chain 35, hdc in 3rd chain and to end. Turn
  2. Sl st into first 3 sts, hdc in rest including turning chain. Turn
  3. Chain 2, skip first st, hdc to end. Join to chain 2
  4. Chain 2, skip first st, hdc to end and join
  5. Repeat row 4
  6. Repeat row 4
  7. Chain 2, hdc in next 15, join to first hdc.
  8. Repeat row 7
  9. Repeat row 7
  10. Repeat row 7
  11. Repeat row 7 fasten off

Join your thread to next available stitch on row 6 and repeat rows 7-11 for other leg.

Thread a large needle with your yarn and stitch up crochet. Add a button to button flap.



This is worked from the bottom up.

  1. Chain 35, hdc in 3rd chain and rest to end, sl st to first hdc
  2. Chain 2, hdc in all stitches and join
  3. Chain 2, hdc in all stitches and join
  4. Chain 2, hdc in all stitches and join
  5. Chain 2, hdc2tg to end, hdc in last DO NOT JOIN FROM HERE
  6. Chain 2, hdc to end, turn
  7. Chain 2, hdc in next 3 stitches, chain 6, sk 1, hdc in next 6, chain 6, skip 1, hdc to end, turn
  8. Chain 2, hdc in first 2 *hdc2tg in next stitch and first chain, hdc in next 4 chains, hdc2tg in next chain and hdc, hdc in next 4 * repeat once more then hdc in last 3 (this is your sleeve holes done)
  9. Chain 1 *sc, sc2tg* repeat to last 2 then sc in next and 2sc in last do not cut. Continue sc down the centre back to join with 1sc per side stitch. sc2tg on last stitch and base of split twice to end up on opposite side. sc to last side stitch and chain 3 to create button hole, sc in last stitch and fasten off weaving in ends. Sew on button.


  1. Join in any stitch and chain 2, hdc in around including the chains, Join. (13 )
  2. Chain 2, sk 1 hdc around and join. Fasten off

You could add other decorations or shorten the trousers to make shorts. Length the sleeves to make a jumper or leave off the sleeves to make a vest. You can avoid joining and make a vest or continue rows on pants  without legs for a skirt.


Superhero Cape and Newborn Mask – pattern and tutorial

Tutorial for making any size cape and pattern for a newborn superhero mask


I bought a babygro from ebay to go with the cape. My text of choice was sleepy superhero but you could have anything on there.


First to start you will need measurements: length from neck to hem of cape. ( I did it to the knees) and neck.

My measurements were length 9 inches and 15 cm ( I know I know… they should be same value sorry)

With a compass or string on a pencil draw a circle using neck measurement as your diameter. From here you can draw  the cape and the fastenings.

Draw down the centre from top to bottom and left to right to form a cross in the circle. From the horizontal line measure across and down the length you want cape. Add 1cm for seam allowance and join the lines with a curve. To create a curve measure from the curve of neck every few cm then join the marks to create your curve.

When you cut this out be sure to add 1cm above the smaller curve for seam allowance . Cut 2.

1-Fullscreen capture 23122015 131017

To create your fastenings with the same circle decide on strap width I chose 3cm as it will be for a newborn so need it small. From the curve measure IN the width of strap plus 1cm overall for seam allowance (will be 0.5cm when you sew). As you did for the cape curve mark little dots along and join to create bottom curve. Extend the line out from line as shown below for cross over at front and extra so sandwich between cape layers. I added 1cm to top of curve and 3cm for the cross over. Cut 4.

EDIT my picture shows strap drawn on outside I realise now this makes the straps too big but drawing it INSIDE the circle makes them correct. Alternatively you can draw outside of the circle and tie them. Please note tying isn’t considered safe so would only be suitable as a prop under supervision. For play item velcro is best


Now you need to add your superhero symbol. As my superhero is sleepy I went for a moon and star with his initial. You need to pin and sew this onto the centre back before constructing cape. I used felt  but you could use any material.

Below is the link to same font I used and all the letters in capital plus the moon and star. The font it Betty Noir and is a free font.



Now you need to apply velcro to the straps. Do this before making them. Then right sides together sew round with 0.5cm seam allowance and turn out. Leave the straight edge unsewn as this will be hidden in cape layers.

Lay your straps on outer layer with the sticky velcro facing down and soft velcro facing up. This is so when sewn the rougher hook part is facing away from the child’s skin.


Lay your two cape pieces right sides together ensuring straps are sandwiched inside and sew round. Start on a straight edge and leave a gap for turning. Turn out iron and top stitch to close the gap. You could use a contrasting colour so it stands out or you.


Next up the mask. This is for a newborn baby. it may fit up to 2 months but you’ll have to test that. The mask should be 12cm from one side to the other. Measure around babies head take off the 12cm and you’ve got strap measurement. You could use length of elastic or split in 2 add enough for seam allowance and cross over and use a fabric and velcro strap.


I cut mine out using felt sewed round outside and inside on the 2 layers sandwiching he straps.


Voila DONE!



I’d love to see your makes from this tutorial


Angel Gown Decorations

Here are some ideas for decorating your angel gowns.

When using fabric

You can use subtly decorated polycotton, cotton or satin.

Adding a bow at top and lace on hem makes it less plain.


Overlay lace panels. If you don’t have enough create a top or skirt and use lace to hide the seam.


Using Wedding Dresses

Centre pattern over lace and decorative parts to have an easy ready done decoration. You can cut decorative parts from lace and hand sew on.

image image

You may come across embroidered dresses which need no extras or dresses with organza layers which can be gathered to create a lovely princess dress effect. I used lace to hide seam  here but you can sew it so edges are hidden under the organza layer.


Remember to only decorate the front. Firstly this is all that is seen. It reduces bulk at back and make the items easier to use.

Sequins and beads should only  be used in centre, anything too close to edge will cut into baby’s skin.

Buttons are no good either. Ties give an adjustable fit which is most important when dealing with angel babies.

Lastly remember no matter how many pretty bits of lace or wedding material you can use not all angels are girls and boy suitable gowns are needed also.



Soft Faux Suede Boots- Tutorial


I wanted some ‘ugg’ style boots for a newborn doll but newborn shoes and booties tend to be ginormous and never fit the size they say they will so I asked around for a maker. I wanted a treat and I’m not the best at shoes but no one came forward so off I went to ebay to get my supplies.

I couldn’t find any free patterns I liked but I did find pictures. I used this one and printed it off to my sizing. You will need to save the image off pinterest as the link doesn’t take you to anything remotely foot related. There are also other style if have a nose.

The foot size I wanted was 9 cm from toe to heel so I copied off the pattern at 11 cm to give myself plenty of seam allowance. Better too much than not enough as you can always trim it.

You will have 2 soles per boot, 2 toe pieces and 2 ankle pieces. 1 of lining which I bought cream fleece for and 1 of outer which  I bought faux doe suede in beige for.

The one I’m using has directions for where to place what I placed my toe section on wrong size of the ankle part but I wanted a fold over so for me it worked.  When cutting make sure you cut opposites so you’ve a left and right.

First place the flat side of the toe section on the ankle part as shown. Must be on the same side as the tab if you want fastening tab to be on the side/back of bootie. Repeat for other foot and outer parts. I found it better to place this approx 1cm from side.

once shown fold it down out the way and put the short sides together and sew where line indicates. When meeting edges pretend the tab isn’t there.

image image1 (1)

At this point I decided to add the velcro on. Add your first piece to the fleece tab and your second piece needs to go on outside of boot. To determine where I folded the ankle section like they were being worn and marked where tab folded over to taking into account seam allowance.

image imageimage

Should be approximately placed like this.


Next we need to put the sole onto each part. Match the front and back of toe and ankle to same parts on sole. Provided you have opposite pieces and attached them in same way when sewn on you will have 2 outers and inners that mirror each other with the fastening tab on opposite sides. If you don’t check you have opposites and everything is on same side.

Pin round the toe. When you get to the small flat edge on the toe section you need to pull it so meets the side of the sole. Like 2nd picture. I had a bit that hung over than I had to chop.

image2 (1)

Sew round the whole thing. Repeat for other shoe and outer’s.

Now Turn your lining right side out and your outer wrong side out and put the lining inside the outer boot.  You will now sew round all the cut edges making sure to leave a gap to turn it all out. I started by the green and sewed round to the blue leaving a gap at the side. Turn out and hand sew the gap closed.

image image12

You now have a pair of rather cute booties that you have as a full boot or turn over to reveal the super soft lining

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